For many travelers, Ajaccio serves as the first introduction to Corsica. Whether you arrive by plane or ferry, chances are your island adventure begins here. And to be honest? We didn’t have sky-high expectations for Corsica’s capital right off the bat—mainly because we were looking forward so much more to all the other beautiful sights the island has to offer.
But Ajaccio managed to pleasantly surprise us. The city has a relaxed Mediterranean atmosphere, colorful facades, charming squares, and a beautiful seaside location. And then, of course, there is its history—especially as the birthplace of Napoleon Bonaparte.
Ajaccio isn’t as well-known as Bonifacio or Calvi, yet we highly recommend visiting. It is one of those cities that offers plenty to do, while also allowing you to simply enjoy the relaxed atmosphere (and it is far less touristy than Bonifacio). In this article, we provide an overview of the best things to do in Ajaccio (and the surrounding area), including our top tips and our favorite restaurants and places to stay.
Read more: The ultimate Corsica bucket list
Practical tips for Ajaccio
- The best time to visit Ajaccio is during spring (April–June) and early autumn (September–October), when the weather is very pleasant and the city is less crowded. While the height of summer sees a wide range of events taking place, it can also be hot and busy. As the capital of Corsica, the city remains fairly lively all year round.
- How to get to Ajaccio: most people arrive by plane at Napoléon Bonaparte Airport (AJA) (book your cheap tickets here). You can fly directly from Belgium with Air Corsica (1 hour 45 minutes). Alternatively, you can take the ferry from Marseille, Toulon, or Nice; the airport is nearby, and the ferry arrives in the city center.
- Getting around Ajaccio: you can easily reach many of the city’s sights on foot (park outside the center) or take one of the many city buses. However, if you want to go on a road trip across Corsica or visit nearby attractions, renting a car is highly recommended. We recommend booking a car via Discovercars.com. Be sure to read our article on renting a car and driving in Corsica as well.
- Fun activities and day trips in Ajaccio: discover the rugged Îles Sanguinaires on a sunset boat tour, take a guided tour exploring Ajaccio’s history, or sample local specialties on a food tour of the city.
- Where to stay in Ajaccio: Ajaccio is an excellent base for exploring Corsica’s west coast. Choose between a lovely double studio in the old town or a centrally located family apartment, or treat yourself to a stay at the beautiful Hôtel Les Mouettes, featuring a swimming pool and private beach.
What to do in Ajaccio
Immerse yourself in the story of Napoleon Bonaparte and his birthplace.
Ajaccio is the birthplace of Napoleon Bonaparte (August 15, 1769), and you notice this everywhere in the city. You will find various statues, monuments, museums, souvenirs, cafés, street names, and more that reference the famous French emperor. Even the airport has been named after him since 2009. And even if history isn’t really your thing, it is still enjoyable to stroll past the key sites and soak up the atmosphere.
A must-visit is Casa Bonaparte, Napoleon’s birthplace. The house was owned by the Bonaparte family for several centuries. In 1923, an heir donated it to the French government, which has since transformed it into a fascinating museum. Inside, you can learn more about Napoleon and his family and view original 18th-century furniture. It has even been designated a National Museum—the only one in Corsica. Be sure to also take a look at the garden opposite the house, where you can escape the hustle and bustle for a while.
TIP: Visiting Ajaccio with children? Then the Naporama museum is highly recommended. In this fun museum, Napoleon’s life and his most famous battles have been recreated using Playmobil figures.
Wander through the historic center
Ajaccio’s old town isn’t particularly large, but it is incredibly charming. Stroll through the narrow streets, admire the colorful facades, and soak up the lively atmosphere in the squares. You’ll also find plenty of lovely boutiques and inviting terraces where you can sit and linger for hours.
We particularly enjoyed the pedestrian-only Rue Cardinal Fesch (during the day), with its many shops, restaurants, antique stores, and beautiful buildings, such as the Palais Fesch (see below). But be sure to also stroll through the small side streets and along the larger shopping street, Cours Napoléon, home to the post office, the vintage Cinéma Laëtitia, and the lovely Eglise Saint-Roch.
If you want to grab a bite to eat in the evening or soak up the lively atmosphere of this Mediterranean city, head to the historic old town between Place Foch and the citadel.
TIP: To get the most out of your visit to Ajaccio’s old town, book a walking tour with an experienced guide who can show you all the interesting facts, entertaining historical stories, and hidden corners.
Visit the Palais Fesch
On Rue Cardinal Fesch, you will find the Palais Fesch, which now houses the Museum of Fine Arts. The palace was built in the 19th century by Napoleon’s uncle, Cardinal Joseph Fesch, who used it to house his art collection.
Today, it houses a large collection of primarily Italian art (the largest collection in France after the Louvre), but also includes paintings by Flemish and Dutch artists, among others.
Definitely worth a visit if you love art or if the weather takes a turn for the worse! Be sure to check out the museum’s courtyard, too—it’s a lovely spot to relax under the beautiful trees.
Admire the city library
The city library is actually part of the Palais Fesch, but it can be visited for free via a separate entrance on Rue Cardinal Fesch. It is one of Ajaccio’s lesser-known attractions, a hidden gem that many tourists walk right past because the entrance is rather inconspicuous. However, if you would like to see a genuine old library, you should definitely step inside.
The library was founded by Napoleon’s brother, Lucien Bonaparte, and houses centuries-old books (dating back to the 16th century), often on art history. It is a nice place to wander around for ten minutes.
Taste the local specialties at the Ajaccio market.
If you are looking for authentic Corsican delicacies, head to the new covered Marché d’Ajaccio (Marcatu d’Aiacciu). Here, you will find stalls filled with local cheeses, charcuterie, olive oil, honey, and wine. Even if you don’t buy anything, it is delightful to simply stroll around and soak up the local atmosphere.
Go there in the morning, as it is open from 7:30 AM to 1:00 PM (except on Mondays). Unfortunately, it had just closed when we arrived. It can also get quite busy there on weekends.
Discover the Cathedral of Ajaccio
The Cathedral of Notre-Dame-de-l’Assomption, built in the 16th century, is located in the oldest part of Ajaccio (not far from the citadel). The ochre-colored building is quite simple on the outside, but it boasts a lavish interior featuring numerous artworks and fine materials.
According to tradition, Letizia Bonaparte was in the cathedral when she went into labor, and Napoleon was born in their home shortly thereafter. He was also baptized in this cathedral at the age of two.
TIP: As you walk out of the cathedral, you have a view of the blue waters of the Mediterranean and the terrace of Bistrot Canaille on the small square in front. It is the perfect spot to order something and reflect on everything you have just seen.
Stroll along the harbor of Ajaccio.
A lovely way to discover Ajaccio is simply to take a stroll along the harbor. There is the old harbor, near the citadel, where you can admire the many colorful boats. We enjoyed a leisurely walk along the quayside, watching fishing boats and yachts come and go while observing the harbor life from the terraces. It is especially delightful here in the late afternoon, when the sun is lower and the harbor slowly comes to life.
If you walk a little further, you reach the larger harbor, where ferries to Marseille, Nice, Toulon, Sardinia, and other Corsican towns dock. You can also often see cruise ships moored here—a mixed blessing for the city. It may not be a spectacular “must-see” attraction to tick off your list, but rather the kind of walk that lets you fully soak up the atmosphere of Ajaccio.
Visit the citadel of Ajaccio.
The citadel is one of Ajaccio’s oldest landmarks, originally built atop a 14th-century fortress. Until recently, it was still used by the French army, but it is now owned by the city. While it is undoubtedly a beautiful site, we feel it could be made somewhat more appealing to visitors; quite a few structures remain dilapidated or closed off. Fortunately, admission is free.
What we particularly loved was the view from the outside of the defensive tower and the local beach (Plage Saint-François), as well as the charming courtyard, which is now home to a café and several lovely little boutiques and galleries. If you’re lucky, there might even be live music playing. Be sure to walk up to the top for a magnificent view of the Gulf of Ajaccio and the Mediterranean Sea.
Stroll around Place Foch
If you walk to the end of Rue Cardinal Fesch, you arrive at the charming Place Foch, one of our favorite spots in Ajaccio. This is the city’s central square and its historic marketplace. Fresh food markets offering delicious produce are still held there; when we visited, a lively flea market was taking place.
But even when there is no market taking place, it is a pleasant spot to spend time, thanks to its many palm trees (hence the nickname *Piazza Palmiers*), the fountain featuring Napoleon (depicted as a Roman consul, flanked by four guardian lions), the town hall, the newsstand, benches, and the many café terraces around the square where locals love to hang out. On Thursdays, you can also watch the Imperial Guard’s 45-minute changing of the guard ceremony at the town hall.
TIP: Not far from Place de Foch, you’ll find another waterfront square, Place de Gaulle which features a statue of Napoleon with his four brothers (further proof of Napoleon’s importance to the city). It is also a great spot for families, offering all kinds of sweets, a carousel, bicycles, and more. In winter, you can even go ice skating there.
Come along for a ride on ‘Le Petit Train d’Ajaccio’
Normally, tourist trains like these aren’t really our thing, but we wanted to mention this one anyway. For over 25 years, ‘Le Petit Train d’Ajaccio’ has been running through Ajaccio and the surrounding area, offering commentary in eight different languages. It departs from Place Foch and follows two different routes.
You can either join the 45-minute tour through the imperial and old town (the little train reaches places where regular cars cannot pass), including a stop at Napoleon’s Cave. Alternatively, you can opt for the longer tour (about an hour extra), which covers the same route but also travels to the Sanguinaires Islands.
Enjoy the sunset
The region around Ajaccio, located in western Corsica, is known for its beautiful sunsets. You cannot watch the sun set into the sea from the city itself, as it faces south. However, from the many terraces, you can certainly watch the sky slowly turn shades of orange and pink.
However, there are a number of spots near Ajaccio where you can enjoy a fantastic view of the sunset:
- Pointe de la Parata: The most famous view of the red Sanguinaires Islands.
- Plage de Porticcio: a beautiful white sandy beach, easily accessible by car from Ajaccio.
- Capo di Feno: A remote, rugged beach (accessible via an unpaved road) with stunning views of the sea and the sunset.
Unfortunately, we weren’t there at sunset, but that’s just another good reason to come back sometime!
TIP: The Sentier des Crêtes is also a great spot to watch the sunset, as it offers beautiful viewpoints overlooking the city and a sweeping view of the Gulf of Ajaccio. However, this woodland walk is well worth doing during the day, too—it’s the perfect way to briefly escape the city’s hustle and bustle.
Relax on the beaches near Ajaccio.
Did you know that you can also find beautiful beaches near Ajaccio? There is, of course, Plage Saint-François near the citadel—which we mentioned earlier—but that beach is quite small and crowded. A short drive from the city center, there are several other sandy beaches along the Gulf of Ajaccio where you can enjoy a swim and relax.
Near Pointe de la Parata, you will find Capo di Feno (nearly a kilometer long), Plage de Sevani (a quiet, fine-sand beach), the child-friendly Plage Terre Sacrée, and Plage de Barbicaghja (close to the city and accessible by bus). On the other side of Ajaccio, past the airport, you can relax at Plage de Porticcio (though quite busy), Plage de Capitello (less crowded and great for snorkeling), and the beautiful Plage de Mare É Sole (a bit further from the city).
Visit Pointe de la Parata and the Îles Sanguinaires
One of our favorite day trips from Ajaccio was exploring Pointe de la Parata and the Sanguinaires Islands, located just half an hour from Ajaccio.
As previously mentioned, a very popular option is to visit the islands and the nature reserve by boat from Ajaccio, either at sunset or during the day. These boat trips usually allow you some time to go for a short walk on the islands themselves.
However, we chose to drive to Pointe de la Parata and hike from there to the very tip where the Genoese tower stands, from that vantage point, you also have a fantastic view of the islands, Capo di Feno, and the rugged Corsican coast. And we were even treated to a whole pod of dolphins!
Take a boat trip along the coast.
In addition to boat trips to the Sanguinaires Islands, various boat excursions along Corsica’s west coast also depart from Ajaccio’s old harbor. The most common options are:
- A boat trip to the spectacular red rocks of the Calanques de Piana and Capo Rosso. We didn’t go there by boat but by car, and we can confirm that they are truly breathtakingly beautiful. Seeing that natural splendor from the water and being able to swim amidst it must be absolutely wonderful.
- A guided boat trip to the Scandola Nature Reserve (a UNESCO World Heritage site), where you can also enjoy a beautiful and spectacular landscape featuring red and golden cliffs.
Even if you aren’t a fan of organized excursions, the view from the water is absolutely worth it. There are several stalls in the old harbor where you can book tickets, but we recommend booking in advance, especially during peak season.
Our favorite restaurants in Ajaccio
In Ajaccio, you will find a wide range of restaurants, bars, and cafés serving traditional Corsican, French, and Italian cuisine, as well as fresh fish and modern Mediterranean dishes. The best and most atmospheric restaurants are not concentrated on a single main avenue but are scattered throughout the historic old town. Our tip? Don’t limit yourself to the restaurants by the harbor; take a walk a little further into the town center. That is often where you’ll discover the most delightful spots—the kind the locals love to frequent.
There is the area above the central market square, Place Foch, featuring Boulevard du Roi Jérôme, Rue Cardinal Fesch, and Rue des Halles. And then there are the charming, lively streets below Place Foch, such as Rue du Roi de Rome, Rue Zevaco Maire, and Rue Bonaparte.
Here are some of our favorite spots in Ajaccio:
- Le 20123: one of Ajaccio’s better-known restaurants and highly recommended if you want to discover traditional Corsican cuisine. The interior alone is an experience in itself, and the dishes are typically Corsican.
- Restaurant Le Don Quichotte: a charming classic in the center of Ajaccio, recommended by the Michelin Guide, offering excellent value for money and a varied menu.
- U Campanile – Chez Pascale: a lovely restaurant featuring traditional Corsican dishes and fresh local ingredients.
- Bistrot Canaille: located on a charming square by the cathedral, this bistro allows you to enjoy delicious dishes served in a cozy setting.
- Rosette et Charlot: one of those spots you shouldn’t miss, featuring a weekly changing menu, reasonable prices, but above all, delicious dishes and excellent service.
- Restaurant Le Saint Pierre: located near the Ajaccio market, this restaurant is known for its delicious fish dishes and local specialties. Perfect if you are in the mood for fresh Mediterranean produce.
- Maison Camedda: a beautifully decorated restaurant on Boulevard du Roi Jérôme, offering delicious and unique dishes that will stay with you for a long time. Highly recommended!
- Le Bistrot Gourmand: an excellent (albeit slightly pricier) choice for lovers of French and Mediterranean cuisine. The dishes are beautifully presented, and the atmosphere is very cozy.
- A Nepita: one of the city’s top-rated restaurants, offering a modern take on Corsican cuisine in a cozy setting—ideal for a slightly more refined lunch or dinner.
- 10 rue des Halles: a nice bar in a cellar with live music and tasty cocktails.
- Via Lattea – Glacier artisanal: come here for one of the best ice creams in the city!
Where to stay in Ajaccio
Ajaccio is an excellent base for exploring the west coast of Corsica. You will find accommodation to suit every budget, ranging from simple apartments to luxury hotels with sea views. We would recommend staying in Ajaccio for at least two nights if you want to explore the city and its surroundings at a leisurely pace.
Would you like to be able to do everything on foot? Then choose to stay in or near the historic center. That way, you can easily walk to the restaurants, the market, and the boulevard.
Are you primarily looking for peace and quiet and the beach? Then there are also various lovely accommodations just outside the center that often offer a bit more space and a beautiful view.
- Studio La Petite Pause: a delightful studio for two, ideally located in the historic center and not far from the beach. Perfect if you are looking for an affordable and comfortable base for exploring the city.
- Casamea Apartment: a clean, comfortable, and spacious apartment, perfectly located in the city center, close to Napoleon’s birthplace. Also suitable for families.
- Hôtel Les Mouettes: our favorite spot for those looking to treat themselves. This charming, beautiful boutique hotel is situated right by the sea and even boasts a small private beach. Its location is fantastic, and you can walk to the historic center.
A few more frequently asked questions about Ajaccio
Is Ajaccio worth it?
Absolutely. Although Ajaccio might not be Corsica’s most spectacular destination, the city offers a delightful combination of culture, history, beaches, and a lively atmosphere. Moreover, it is an excellent place to start or end your tour of Corsica.
How many days do you need in Ajaccio?
We recommend spending at least one full day in Ajaccio. While you can see most of the sights in Ajaccio’s old town in half a day, you really need a full day if you also want to visit a museum or enjoy a meal out. If you also wish to enjoy the beaches, take a boat trip, or explore the surrounding area (such as the hike to Pointe de la Parata), then two to three days would be ideal.
What is the best time to visit Ajaccio?
As far as we are concerned, the months of May, June (when we were there), September, and October are perfect. You enjoy pleasant temperatures and fewer crowds than during the summer months. Ajaccio is also very lively in July and August, though you do have to take into account the larger number of tourists.
Can you visit Ajaccio without a car?
Yes, that is actually the best way! Ajaccio’s historic center is very compact and easy to explore on foot. While you can rely partly on public transport to discover the area’s most beautiful beaches and natural sites, renting a car is highly recommended.
Is Ajaccio a good base for exploring Corsica?
Yes, especially if you want to explore the west coast of Corsica. From Ajaccio, you can easily take day trips to the Calanques de Piana, the Route des Sanguinaires, and various beautiful beaches in the area. Moreover, the city has an airport and ferry connections, making it a very convenient starting or ending point for your trip.
Where can you park in Ajaccio?
Ajaccio does have something of a parking problem during peak season, so finding a spot isn’t always easy. We parked near the station at the Parking du Marconajo, the Parking Charles Ornano is another good option. From there, it is a bit of a walk to the old town, though you can also take the bus. If you really want to park in the city center, the parking garage beneath Place du Diamant is a good choice.
Our unfiltered opinion on Ajaccio
Ajaccio probably isn’t our number-one spot in Corsica, there are simply too many spectacular places on the island for that. But this says more about the wealth of extraordinary things to do in Corsica than it does about whether you should skip the city.
We were pleasantly surprised by the imperial city and its delightful atmosphere. It is a charming Mediterranean city where you can enjoy a leisurely stroll without having to stick to a strict schedule. Moreover, it is the perfect place to start or end your trip through Corsica.
Would we fly to Corsica specifically for Ajaccio? Probably not. But would we stay there again for a day or two during a tour of the island? Absolutely!
