Albania road trip: our ultimate itinerary for 10 days to 3 weeks

Albania has been a mystery to us for a long time… Even though it’s getting more popular recently, it’s still one of the more undiscovered corners of Europe (apart from the coastline, perhaps). We heard many stories about untouched mountains, a forgotten riviera, mysterious Ottoman towns, and its complex history.

After traveling through Albania, we can indeed confirm it is one of the countries in Europe you must visit and all the stories about this beautiful destination are true. Albania is a wonderful divers country with stunning scenery in the Albanian Alps, turquoise bays with sandy beaches by the coast, picturesque UNESCO cities, but above all delicious food and incredibly friendly people.

Albania has everything you need to plan the perfect trip. So, we’ve put together this Albania itinerary for you based on our own experience, with suggested routes for 10 days, 2 weeks, or 3 weeks. It’ll take you past the best things to do in Albania, explain you how to get there, and where to stay and eat.

Albania practical info

Not a lot of time to read the full article right now? Here are a few quick tips for Albania before you begin your adventure. Later in this travel guide, we’ll explain everything in detail.

• Best time to visit Albania: May, June, and September. The weather is perfect then, and you avoid the heat and crowds of the high season. The coast, in particular, gets extremely busy in summer.
• How to get to Albania: You can fly to Tirana International Airport (TIA). Or you can travel by car from the neighboring countries, such as Greece, Montenegro, etc.
• Transport in Albania: A rental car is essential for this road trip through Albania. We advise you to book your rental car with Discover Cars for the best prices and service.
• Best places to stay in Albania: Stay in one of the authentic guesthouses in the mountains (Theth), in charming boutique hotels in Berat and Gjirokastër, or beach resorts in Ksamil. The capital Tirana also offers affordable but nice accommodations.
• Local dishes you shouldn’t miss: Byrek (savory filo pastry), Tavë Kosi (lamb with yogurt), Fërgesë (a stew with peppers and cheese), and of course fresh fish along the coast.
• The best places to visit Albania: Tirana, Theth, Krujë, Berat, Gjirokastër, Ksamil, Butrint National Park, Himarë, and the Roman ruins of Butrint.
• Fun activities to do in Albania: Go hike in the Albanian Alps or in the mountains around Tirana, explore the castles of Krujë and Gjirokastër, take a local cooking class, or take a boat tour at the Albanian Riviera.
• Hidden gems in Albania: The Llogara Pass (a spectacular coastal road), the Blue Eye (Syri i Kaltër), and the Albanian Alps around Theth.
• Stay online: Buy an eSIM for Albania (with a 5% discount) so you’re always connected.
• Budget tip: Albania’s currency is the LEK. You can reduce transaction fees, for example when withdrawing cash or paying at a restaurant, by using a Wise account linked to a debit card. You can request a free Wise debit card here.

Other frequently asked questions about Albania

Overview Albania Itinerary day-by-day

BEST TIME TO VISIT ALBANIA

The best time to visit Albania is between May and October, when the weather is warm and sunny. In May and June, the landscape is beautifully green, ideal for a road trip and hikes, with mild temperatures and far fewer crowds.

July and August are the absolute peak months, perfect for beach lovers. Trust us, the Riviera beaches are beautiful then, but also packed, and temperatures can get very high!

In September and early October, you still get a wonderful late summer. The sea is still warm, and the weather is pleasant. This shoulder season is ideal if you prefer a quieter experience.

In the low season (winter), Albania is a country with two faces. You can still visit the cities, of course, but many restaurants and hotels along the coast are closed. The mountains are often inaccessible due to snow.

How to get to Albania

We visited Albania from Montenegro, where we were staying for a longer period. Albania lies on the Mediterranean Sea between Montenegro and Greece.

How to travel around Albania: tips for transport

Hiring a car is without a doubt the most pleasant and easy way to explore Albania. The country used to have a bad name when it came to the state of the roads, but from our experience it wasn’t too bad.

Itinerary Albania: places to visit

Around every corner in Albania, a new adventure awaits. Often the unexpected encounters are more memorable than the planned visits, but you should definitely see the following highlights in Albania:

Get lost in the colorful chaos of Tirana

Let go of all preconceptions, because Tirana is one of the most vibrant and surprising capitals in Europe. Stroll across the enormous Skanderbeg Square, explore the trendy cafés and boutiques in the Blloku district, and be amazed by the brightly colored buildings that help erase a grey past. If you want to learn more about the history of Albania and Tirana, it can be helpful to hire a guide.

Be sure to visit one of the two Bunk’Art bunkers as well. They take you back into Albania’s somber past.

Go hiking in the Albanian Alps in Theth

You should definitely visit the Albanian Alps; one of the nicest and now also best‑known places to start your hike is Theth, a traditional village. The journey there is an adventure in itself, but the road was renewed in 2023, so you can now get there with a regular rental car.

You can easily stay overnight in Theth as well; most guesthouses are located along the main street.

The most famous hike is the Valbonë Pass hike, which takes 6 to 8 hours and is about 17 km long. In the area, there is also a lake where you can take the ferry to Koman. Here you can find more information about Theth and its surroundings.

Visit Berat, the city of a thousand windows

Berat is known as “the city of a thousand windows,” and it’s one of those places that instantly leaves you speechless. As you approach the city and see the white Ottoman houses climbing up the hills of the Mangalem district, you immediately understand why it’s a UNESCO World Heritage site.

It feels as if time has stood still here. Wander through the narrow streets, where stone steps lead you past old wooden balconies and fragrant gardens full of grapevines.

From the other side of the river, you have the best view of Berat; you can easily cross the bridge.

The climb to the castle (Kala) is a bit steep, especially on a warm day, but absolutely worth it. The starting point of the walk up is here. At the top, you’re rewarded with a view you won’t soon forget: the Osum River glistening in the sun and the mountains rising in the distance. What makes this castle extra special is that it is still inhabited. Be sure to visit the ethnographic museum of Berat.

Tip: Go up in the evening, just before sunset. The golden light sweeping over the white houses and turning the mountains pink is stunning. You can bring your own picnic or eat at one of the restaurants inside the castle. One of our favorites was Zeri Traditional Food.

Step back in time in Gjirokastër

Gjirokastër has a completely different vibe from Berat. It feels tougher and more imposing. You’ll find grand houses with gray slate roofs towering above the cobbled streets, giving the city an almost medieval atmosphere. The Ottoman bazaar is great for wandering around; there’s certainly no shortage of souvenirs here. You can find handmade textiles and antique items.

Above the city towers Gjirokastër Castle, one of Albania’s most beautiful sights. The climb up is a bit of a workout, but the view is worth it: you’ll have a stunning panorama of the Drin Valley and the steep rooftops built against the mountainside. Inside, you’ll find a museum and even an old aircraft wreck that still recalls Albania’s more recent history.

In the bazaar, you’ll find plenty of places to enjoy a good meal, such as Vojsava Restaurant. Keep in mind that portions in Albania are quite large.

Travel tip: Several of the houses have now been turned into museums, such as Skënduli House, which you can visit. It is now an impressive 300 years old.

Visit the archaeological Butrint National Park

Not far from the coast, in the south of Albania, lies Butrint National Park. This site is more than 2,500 years old, and you’ll find Roman temples, a Roman theater, remains of Byzantine basilicas, and a Venetian fortress.

What makes Butrint extra special is the peace and nature surrounding it. The ruins lie in a beautiful landscape of wetlands, lakes, and salt flats. The flora and fauna are truly impressive! It makes Butrint one of Albania’s most important sights. If you’re very lucky, you might even spot dolphins.

Travel tip: Go early in the morning, before the tour buses arrive. Be sure to bring enough water and sun protection.

Visit the beaches of the Albanian Riviera

The southern coast of Albania is probably the biggest attraction in the entire country. From the turquoise bays around Ksamil with crystal‑clear water to the charming town of Himarë. We weren’t huge fans of the crowded beaches, but if you look carefully, you can still find some of the smaller, more hidden spots. You’ll have to be quick though, as construction is happening everywhere at the moment.

We went exploring at Aquarium Beach in Himarë but noticed that a new resort was also being built right next to the beach at Guma Beach.

Travel tip: Rent a scooter or car and follow the coastal road between Sarandë and Vlorë. Stop along the way at small beaches like Lukovë or Borsh, where you’ll often have the place almost to yourself. Bring your snorkel mask and finish the day at a local taverna with fresh fish.

Drive along the breathtaking Llogara Pass

The Llogara Pass winds its way up from the coast to over 1,000 meters, where the sea and the mountains seem to meet. After every curve, a new view appears—over deep valleys filled with pine forests all the way to the shimmering Ionian Sea.

Travel tip: Drive the pass early in the morning or just before sunset. The light is softer then, and the sea views are at their best. Stop at the viewpoint at the top for a short walk or a coffee with a panorama — and don’t forget to bring a sweater, because even on summer days it can be surprisingly cool up there.

Dive into the history of Krujë

High in the mountains, overlooking the vast plains stretching toward the Adriatic Sea, lies Krujë, the proud “eagle’s nest” of Albania. This town is inseparably linked to the national hero Skanderbeg, who defended his castle here against the Ottoman Empire in the 15th century. From the fortress walls, you look out over the valley — a view that was once strategic, but is now simply breathtaking.

At the foot of the castle lies the charming old bazaar, where you feel as if you’re stepping back in time. It’s mostly souvenirs that are sold there now, but it’s still beautiful to see.

At the castle, you can also visit the ethnographic museum. There are several nice restaurants where you can enjoy a good meal, such as Restaurant Panorama, which of course offers a beautiful view of the valley.

Taste the authentic Albanian cuisine

Eating in Albania is a real celebration. Wherever you go, the smell of freshly baked byrek — crispy pastry filled with spinach, cheese, or meat — will tempt you into a local bakery. In a traditional taverna, you shouldn’t skip Tavë Kosi: a creamy oven dish made with lamb, yogurt, and eggs.

In Gjirokastër, you should definitely try Qifqi, small crispy balls made of rice, egg, and herbs, unique to this region.

Eating out in Albania is still surprisingly affordable, which makes it even more tempting to try something new again and again.

A bit further on in this article, you’ll find our favorite restaurants in Albania.

Shkodër, culture and history by the lake

Shkodër is the largest city in northern Albania. It has the imposing Rozafa Castle overlooking the city, narrow streets full of cafés, art galleries, and small craft shops. You should definitely visit the castle — as you walk along its old walls, you’ll have a beautiful view of the city, the surrounding mountains, and the shimmering Lake Shkodër, the largest lake in the Balkans.

Travel tip: If you don’t have much time, you can take a day trip from Shkodër to Komani Lake.

Hidden gems in Albania

There is so much to see in Albania, but you can definitely add these 5 hidden gems to your Albania bucket list.

The Blue Eye (Syri i Kaltër) near Sarandë: A natural spring in southern Albania where icy, crystal‑clear water bubbles up, creating a mesmerizing blue “eye.” It’s a stunning place. You can see up to 50 meters deep into the water from above. You can also do a loop walk through the surrounding forest.

The thermal baths of Benja (Bënjë): Take a dip in natural hot springs in a beautiful river valley, with a view of an old Ottoman bridge. There are six different springs. The most famous one is right next to the iconic Kadiut Bridge at the Lengarica Canyon. You’ll need a car to get there.

Gjipe Beach: A secluded paradise that you can reach by hiking through an impressive canyon. This is one of the most beautiful, untouched beaches of the Riviera.

The Cold War Tunnel in Gjirokastër: A chilling dive into the country’s paranoid past. A guided tour through this secret underground bunker system beneath the castle is unique and unforgettable. You can find more information about the tunnel on this website.

Het Ali Pasha Kasteel bij Porto Palermo: Een prachtig bewaard gebleven fort op een schiereiland langs de kust. Klim naar het dak voor een fenomenaal uitzicht.

Our favorite places to eat in Albania

• Taverna Kardhasi (Gjirokastër) – Looking for pure Albanian flavors without any fuss? Then settle down at this taverna on a cozy little square. This is the place to try the local specialty, qifqi. Expect delicious stews and fresh salads — exactly how Albanian cuisine should be: honest, authentic, and full of flavor.

• Era Restaurant (Tirana): A well‑known spot in the Blloku district. Perfect for an introduction to Albanian cuisine in a modern, lively setting. They also serve pizza, pasta, and salads.
• Lili Homemade Food (Berat): A tiny, family‑run restaurant in the Mangalem district. Eating here feels like coming home. Reservations are a must!
• Taverna Lefteri (Himarë): This is the oldest restaurant in Himarë and located right by the water. Simple, pure, and with a sea view.
• The guesthouses in Theth: The best meals in the mountains are served right in your guesthouse. Expect hearty, homemade dishes with ingredients straight from the garden.

Where to stay in Albania

Tirana: Choose a modern hotel or Airbnb in the Blloku district. You’ll be right in the heart of the action, with all cafés and restaurants within walking distance.

Berat & Gjirokastër: For the most authentic experience, stay in one of the beautifully restored Ottoman houses that now serve as boutique hotels.

Theth: Stay in one of the local guesthouses or one of the beautifully located hotels. The mountain views are spectacular.

Albanian Riviera: Along the coast you’ll find a mix of small‑scale hotels and apartments. Himarë offers a relaxed base for exploring the various beaches. Ksamil is also a nice place to stay, but it can get very busy in summer.

Our honest opinion about Albania

Albania has stolen our hearts. It is a country of extreme contrasts: from the rugged, almost untamed mountains in the north to the idyllic, turquoise coast in the south. Unfortunately, more and more construction is happening along the coast, and there don’t seem to be clear regulations in place to preserve the beautiful landscape.

The traces of a complex communist past are still visible, but you can clearly feel the energy of the new generation. We never felt unsafe. You do still need to be careful with stray dogs, of course. Especially in rural areas, you should be cautious on the roads.

But Albania still feels real, pure, and undiscovered. The hospitality of the Albanian people is truly heartwarming. So, are you looking for adventure? Then Albania is the place to be!

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