Before we started our road trip in the Peloponnese, we had never heard of Mystras. But the more we read about it, the more it intrigued us and after our visit with the kids, we unanimously agreed. Mystras, located north of the Mani Peninsula, is one of our favorite sights in Greece.
Arriving here feels like stepping back in time. Tucked into the green slopes of Mount Taygetos, not far from modern Sparta, lies this magical, abandoned city of Byzantine ruins, winding paths and stunning views.
Whether you are a history buff, a nature lover or just looking for a unique Greek experience away from the crowds, Mystras will enchant you. In this article, we will give you all the information and tips you need to plan your visit to Mytras and show you some of our photos why it is a must-see on a road trip through Greece.
How to get to Mystras?
Mystras is located on the Greek mainland, in the Peloponnese region, about 5 kilometers from Sparta. By car, it is about a 2.5 to 3-hour drive from Athens.
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If you’re coming from the lovely town of Nafplio, it’s 1h45, depending on how many times you stop for a frappé or a photo along the way (spoiler: it happens a lot). This was also one of our favourite drives in the Peloponnese, with snow-capped mountains and blossoming olive trees in the foreground (in spring).
TIP: Especially if you want to go on a road trip, we really recommend you to drive yourself. You can rent your car upon arrival in Athens, at the airport or in the city. Look for the best car and best prices on Rentalcars.
You can also take the bus from Athens to Sparta and from there take a taxi to Mystras. But honestly? With a car, you have so much more freedom to explore the surrounding villages and nature.
Read more: What to do in Athens, Greece
The best time to visit Mystras
Generally speaking, spring and autumn are the best times to travel to Greece. We were there in spring and it was absolutely perfect. In April and May, everything is fresh and green, flowers are blooming everywhere among the ruins, and the weather is pleasant without being too hot.
September and October are also lovely months: warm enough for a terrace, but without the summer crowds. And the seawater has also warmed up nicely in the meantime, so lovely for swimming (especially if you also visit one of the Greek islands such as Zakynthos).
Summer can be hot, especially since you do quite a bit of climbing between the sights. Make sure you have enough water, a hat, and sunscreen. Winter is cold, especially in the mountains, where Mystras is also located.
A little history about Mytras
Mystras was founded in the 13th century by the Frankish prince William II of Villehardouin, who built a castle on the hill. Shortly afterwards, the city came into Byzantine hands, and it grew into an important religious and cultural center of the Byzantine Empire. In the 14th and 15th centuries, Mystras was even the seat of the Despots of Morea, regional rulers who were often related to the emperor.
The city was at its peak then, with impressive churches, palaces, and schools. Great thinkers such as the philosopher Plethon worked there and gave the city prestige far beyond Greece. After the fall of Constantinople, Mystras slowly fell into decline.
Today, a mysterious, atmospheric ruined city remains. An open-air museum where you can still feel the grandeur of the past, with chapels where frescoes still adorn the walls, deserted alleys and panoramic views over the Laconian plain.
Tips for visiting Mystras
Plan your visit for the morning or late afternoon, especially in the warmer months. The terrain is hilly and involves quite a bit of climbing, so mild temperatures really make a difference.
There are two entrances: one at the top near the castle and one at the bottom near the monastery of Pantanassa. We started at the bottom and walked all the way up, then walked back to the starting point (saves a lot of descending on tired legs!). If you have trouble walking, you can also park at the top, walk down and take a taxi up from there.
Wear sturdy walking shoes, the paths can be uneven, and take plenty of water, sunscreen and possibly a cap or hat. Don’t forget your camera: there are beautiful views and impressive details in the old churches and buildings.
The site is large, so definitely count on 2 to 3 hours, or more if you want to look around at your leisure. Take your time to sit still and just enjoy the atmosphere, Mystras is not a place to walk through quickly.
What to do in Mystras
- Explore the ruins and religious buildings: Stroll past churches (and there are many!), the Despot’s Palace at the very top, monasteries and charming squares. The Church of Agios Demetrios is a highlight, as is the Pantanassa Monastery where nuns still live.
- Admire the frescoes: In some churches you can still see impressive wall paintings. Although some are very faded, others still have colors as if they were painted yesterday (so to speak).
- Enjoy the view: At the top of the site, at the castle, you are rewarded with a panoramic view that is simply breathtaking. But also at other places you have beautiful views.
- Visit the archaeological museum: Small but interesting, with finds from the city and information that adds extra meaning to everything you’ve just seen.
- Take in the scenery: What we especially enjoyed was strolling around this old town, taking pictures of the many vistas with a church in the background, enjoying the nature and flowers that are slowly taking over the ruins, and just taking our time to feel the magic of this place.
Where to eat in Mystras?
After all that walking, we were seriously hungry. Luckily, there are some nice tavernas in the modern village of Mystras (right next to the historical site). Here are two restaurants we recommend:
- Chromata Restaurant: Our favorite! A beautiful terrace, friendly service, and delicious local dishes such as moussaka, grilled chicken, and fresh salads with feta that melts in your mouth.
- Taverna Pikoulianika: Cosy, with a view of the valley and a menu full of traditional dishes. The stuffed vine leaves are a must!
Where to spend the night?
If you have enough time during your tour of the Peloponnese, we recommend that you stay here for one night. That way, you can enjoy the peace and quiet and discover the site in peace in the morning or evening. Here are two nice options:
- Mazaraki Guesthouse: Authentic and charming, with spacious rooms and a delicious breakfast with a view. Perfect for those who love small-scale charm.
- Art Flowers and Culture: Spacious apartment with three bedrooms and one bathroom, a sunny terrace, and a garden, perfect for families.
- Mystras Grand Palace Resort & Spa: Luxury, swimming pool, and beautifully situated just outside the village. Ideal for those who want to relax a bit after a day of history sniffing.
Our conclusion about our visit to Mystras in Greece
Mystras felt like a hidden gem to us. Not as well known as Athens or Delphi, but at least as impressive if you ask us.
It is a place where history becomes tangible, where you feel the silence of ancient walls, and where every step tells a story. If you have the chance to go there during , do not hesitate. Let yourself be enchanted by the magic of Mystras, just like we did. Have a nice trip!
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